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The geometry is the same, with slightly longer head tubes to account for the longer chain stays, slightly shorter reach and slightly steeper head tube angle. This means that the front centre of gravity is higher, and therefore the bike leans more over when you pedal through the large bumps. Even so, a lot of people don't find this an issue - in fact, the bike will feel more stable at higher speeds. The issue arises when you need to brake harder to make a stop. This is when the bike's added weight from the extra unsprung mass can make a difference.
In a suspension bike, the chain stays are longer, and the breakaway effect is reduced. You still feel the shock, but it's less likely to cause your front wheel to break out of the frame, which means that you can ride at higher speeds for longer.
When the top tube is too short, the front wheel loses it's contact with the ground completely. It's like having the front wheel out in the air, and the bike will be unstable and twitchy. The front end will continue to roll over when you hit an obstacle, and even if you manage to stop the front wheel, it will continue to roll, and it will be less stable.
The seat tube is the tube that the seat is mounted into. Bikes are measured from seat tube to top of the head tube, and this gives us the bottom bracket drop. If you are buying a bike on top of a frame that is already made, you may have to do some calculations to work out how much of the frame you are going to have to cut out to fit your frame. There are calculators on the Internet to do this.
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